THE LADIES' MONTHLY MUSEUM.
MIRROR OF FASHION
FOR JANUARY, 1819.
A HIGH dress composed of black sarsnet, the body is
very short in the waist; the back is full in the middle, the
fulness is confined about half way down by black silk cord,
which is braided across in the form of diamonds, each of
which is finished at the corner by a little tuft of black silk.
The front, which is byas, is also full; but the fulness being
disposed in plaits on the shoulder, and plaited into a band
at the bottom of the waist, the front sits tight to the shape:
there are six or seven of these plaits, and they are very deep.
Long plain sleeve, finished by a narrow white crape ruffle.
There is no collar, but a fichu and full ruff of white crape.
The bottom of the skirt is richly let in in the Spanish style,
with large white crape puffs, which are confined by a light
trimming of white chenille; these puffs are surmounted by
a light narrow embroidery of chenille. With this dress is
worn a black velvet spencer, the back is plain and tight to
the shape, the front richly trimmed à la militaire with black
silk cord and buttons. Long sleeve of an easy fullness; ornamented
with a singularly pretty epaulette, which is formed
of three rows of pointed satin laid on full; a single row of
points ornaments the bottom of the sleeve and the waist.
Head-dress, a black velvet toque of a moderate height,
pointed round the top of the crown, the points are edged
with satin; the lower part of the toque is tastefully ornamented
with satin pipings, laid on in a slanting position,
and a rich plume of black feathers placed to the left side.
Black kid gloves and shoes.
A FROCK, composed of plain black gauze, over a white
satin slip; the skirt is of an easy fulness, and rather longer
than they have been recently worn; it is tastefully trimmed
round the bottom with two rows of white satin bows, which
are disposed at some distance from each other. The body
is made tight to the shape, it is cut low in the back of the
neck, rises a little on each side of the bosom, and is sloped
very low just before; the waist is very short, the bust is
elegantly trimmed with white satin points, which are edged
with chenille. Short sleeve made extremely full; the
fulness confined by a light embroidery of chenille. The
front hair is disposed in light curls which fall low at each
side of the face; the hind hair is brought round the head
in braids, the ends of some of these braids form a cluster
of bows behind on the crown of the head, and others are
disposed in a few loose curls in the back of the neck.
Head-dress, a white satin coronet, adorned with pearls;
it is placed far back on the crown of the head. Necklace,
tar-rings, and cross, jet, White satin slippers, and white
It being the Lord Chamberlain's orders that the Court
mourning is to be changed on the 3d of January to plain
black silk, and grey for undress; and on the 24th to be still
further changed, to black silk with coloured ribands, we
have endeavoured to procure descriptions of some dresses
now preparing for the change of mourning, which we flatter
ourselves our fair readers will find worthy of their attention.
The first is a pelisse of fine Merino grey cloth, lined with
white sarsnet; it has a plain broad back, which is finished
at each side with five or six small plaits of grey satin, close
to these plaits on each side, is a row of small jet buttons,
which are placed at irregular distances, and are braided
with black silk cord. The collar is a full rouleau of grey
satin, which is entwined with black silk cord. The fronts
are plain and tight to the shape. The sleeve is very long
and loose. The shoulder is ornamented with a full rouleau
of grey satin to correspond with the collar, it is so contrived
as to stand up; the bottom of the sleeve is finished with a
rouleau to correspond. The trimming which goes entirely
round the pelisse, consists of a row of broad black velvet
shells, edged with swansdown. This is one of the most
elegant half mourning dresses that we have seen.
We have been favoured also with the sight of an evening
dress composed of black velvet; it is cut down very low all
round the bust, but an under body of white satin shades
the neck sufficiently to prevent any indelicacy. The trimming
of the bust is a row of small crape roses without leaves,
of that beautiful and vivid red which we term the French
rose colour. Short full white satin sleeve, over which is a
small half sleeve composed of black velvet; it is a single
deep point, it comes from the back part of the shoulder to
the front of the arm, and is trimmed with small roses to
correspond with the bust. At the bottom of the skirt, is a
deep flounce of black patent net, the edge of which is
slightly finished with rose-colour chenille; this is looped at
considerable distances with single roses, which are much
larger than those on the neck and sleeves; there is a narrow
heading left to the flounce, the edge of which is slightly
finished with chenille.
This dress, though calculated for the latest half mourning,
might also, with the greatest propriety, be worn in full dress
at any time during the winter months. We must in justice
to the eminent house, by whom we were favoured with a
sight of it, and the pelisse, observe that nothing can be more
strikingly elegant than the former, or better calculated for
White crape toques for evening dress are at present in
considerable estimation, and are likely to continue so
during the next month. Diadems of crape roses, principally
white, are also much worn. The toque cap is likely to
be fashionable for half dress; it is extremely novel, the
lower part is a mob, the upper a low toque, with a small
dome crown; it is usually ornamented with a crape flower
in front; the toque part is composed of white satin, and
the cornette of crape; it has a very narrow full border, and
fastens with a little bow of satin riband under the chin.
THE French Court mourning for our late Queen being now
at an end, we proceed with our usual account of their
The most fashionable promenade dresses at present are
composed of fine Merino cloth, though some élégantes still
wear perkale gowns, with black velvet spencers, or cloth witzhouras.
The latter are richly trimmed, and sometimes lined
with fur. Cloth dresses are made very plain, with long
sleeves rather loose; very short waists; and bodies tight
to the shape. Some fasten in front with bottons from the
chin to the waist. The fronts of others wrap considerably
across. The trimmings of these dresses are generally
several rows of narrow riband, or velvet riband; or sometimes
a broad single band of swansdown, or chinchilla.
Muslin dresses are always trimmed with rich worked
flounces. Muffs begin to be seen in the fashionable promenades,
but only within the last few days, because till
now the weather has been very mild ; tippets are generally
White satin and figured silk are fashionable for evening
gowns; but velvet is more so than either. The favourite
evening dress is the robe à la Vierge ; it is composed of azure
velvet, and trimmed with silver cord and Brandenbourgs ;
it is a round dress; the body is tight to the shape; it is cut
rather high, so as only to display the throat, and a small
portion of the neck. The front of the bust is ornamented
with silver cord, and Brandenbourgs, so as to form a small
stomacher. Short full sleeve, confined by a narrow band
of velvet, which is slightly ornamented with silver cord.
The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with tufted silver fringe,
which has a very rich effect.
Chapeaux are composed of plain, or spotted velvet, silk,
plush, satin, or beaver. They are still worn large, and
the brims stand as much as ever out from the face. The
general ornaments for the edges of the brims of hats are
a band of the lining, which turns up nearly two inches over
the brim, or else a light feather edging, or a twisted rouleau