vocabulary

Alum-tanning: way of treating insole which sterilizes inner portions of shoe

Baboosh: Turkish flat-soled shoe with upturned toe

Back-strap/strip: strip of leather covering back-seam of shoe quarter

Bar Shoe: shoe with instep strap or button

Boot: a shoe that extends considerably above one’s ankle

Bottom: underside of shoe composed of: sole, insole, middle, welt, heel

Bracing: threading used to last an upper to an insole

Brocade: heavy fabric interwoven with rich, raised design

Brogue: closed laced shoe made of many sections

Buckle: fancy way to close shoes often denoting status, especially for men

Built Heel: same as stacked heel

Buskin: a low linen or silk stocking; or a type of high boot

Button: used to close shoes

Calcagnetti: one of many Italian words for chopine; other variations include callagnieti, calcagniegi

Caleghero: Italian word for a shoe-maker, as opposed to Zavatero, a cobbler

Cambridge: low-cut slipper with elastic gusset on each side for men

Channel: row of holes where stitching is made

Chopine: English word for a platform shoe popular in Renaissance Italy, Spain and England; possibly of Eastern origin

Ciabattine: one of many Italian words for chopine

Clog: wooden simple shoe worn indoors or outdoors, often synonomous to 'patten'

Closed Seam:two upper sections stitched together then flattened

Club Shoe: modern-day chopine worn to clubs

Cobbler: one who repairs shoes using secondhand materials

Cordovan: heavy leather, often used for men’s shoes

Cordwain: term used for leather from Cordoba of sheep, goat then cow hide

Counter: stuffing between outside and lining; or s.t. used to stiffen heel

Damask: rich patterned fabric of silk or wool used in the upper of a shoe

Eyelet: small hole through which laces run

Footbinding: Chinese tradition practiced to keep women's feet small (from ca. 1000-1949 AD).

Geta: platformed Japanese style shoe often made of wood with simple strap.

Golden Lily: (see Lotus Foot)

Heel: raised part of shoe under heel of foot

Insole: inside part of shoe on which foot rests

Instep: imprecise area between toes and ankle

Kabkab: Turkish women’s high platform bathhouse clog

Kid Leather: leather made from goatskin

Lace: strings used for closing a shoe

Lapped Seam: seam when two pieces are sewn together, one on top of other

Last: wooden shoe-shaped block around which shoe is designed and made

Lasting: operation of shaping the upper to the last

Lasting Margin: lower edge of shoe upper turned under and fixed to sole

Latchet: top front of quarter extended into straps

Lift: same as heel

Lotus Foot: ideally a three-inch foot created by intensive footbinding in China, a populartradition from ca. 1000-1949 AD.

Lotus Slipper: intricately embroidered shoe worn over tiny Lotus Foot

Louis Heel: introced in 1600s; downwards extension of the sole

Monk shoe or strap: shoe with a buckling strap from one side to the other

Middle or Middle Sole

Moccasin: simply made shoe where vamp and sole are made of one piece

Mule: heeled shoe with open back

Muslin: any of various sturdy cotton fabrics of plain weave

Nailed Construction: when shoe components are nailed together

Overshoes: same as patten; worn under or around shoe to keep it clean or dry

Oxford: man’s traditional shoe with closed front

Pantofole: one of many Italian words for chopine

Patent Leather:made from cattle hide and given a hard, glossy surface finish

Patten: worn under/around shoe to keep it clean and dry when outside

Pianelle: most common word for chopines in the Italian language

Pinafore: heel contiguous with sole of shoe; ‘earth shoe;’ ‘unit bottom’

Pitch: distance between heel and front part of shoe that touches the ground

Platform: literally a platform under sole of shoe, often with a higher heel

Poulaine: stunning men’s medieval shoe with long, pointed toe, possibly from Poland

Quarter: area behind sides and back of shoe

Rand: leather strip used to level off sole before heel is mounted

Reticella lace: Maltese lace; a kind of metal mosquito-net screen lace

Round: inside of the heel and underneath it/under the arch on outside part

Sandal: simple soled shoe with supporting straps; earliest shoe produced

Satin: smooth, glossy fabric used in upper or as external decoration on shoe

Shank: same as waist; under arch of foot and often made of metal for support

Sheepskin: kind of leather used for linings and slippers

Side Leather: most versatile leather for making shoes from the side of cow

Sole: the bottom part of shoe which touches the ground

Solee: another Italian word for chopine

Spool Heel: stacked heel made of large individual, often rounded parts

Suede: leather made by buffing inner surface to produce a napped finish

Tacks: ways of attaching pieces of the upper, especially used by Italians

Tapine: another Italian word for chopine

Tassel: added decorative element to shoes

Throat: area above where foot is in a shoe...

Toe Cap: reinforced or decorated layer over tip of toe part

Tongue: part of shoe behind a slitted vamp that resembles a tongue

Top Lift: area of heel that touches the ground

Turnshoe Construction: when the shoe is made inside out first, then turned

Turn-Welt: turnshoe with wide rand as part of seam

Upper: portion of shoe which covers top of foot

Vamp: forward part of shoe upper, attached to sole

Vamp Wings: sides of vamp extending backwards

Veldtschoen: shoe in which upper is turned outward to form a flange

Waist: narrow part of shoe under arch

Walled Toe: shoe forepart which rises vertically

Wedge Heel: kind of heel that looks like a wedge between sole and ground

Wellington: knee-length riding boot introduced by Duke of Wellington.

Welt: narrow strip sewn between upper and sole

Zavatero: Italian word for cobbler, one who repairs shoes using secondhand materials

Zibroni: another popular Italian word for chopines

Zoccoli: one of the most popular Italian words for chopines